Jan 29
Woo, what a day it was yesterday. Well, I guess I should start with the night before. I met up with some of the people from the group at our new favorite bar Choomadan, but the bar was full so we had to walk around until we found another place to go. A few blocks away we found a little café that serves beer, so we went in and pretty much took over the place. More of our friends kept coming at meeting us and by the café’s closing time at 10:00 we had pulled together nearly all their tables and were sitting in a huge group. I felt sorry for the workers who had to accommodate us. I had a couple beers and talked with people and it was a good time. When it was time to go the group sort of split up and I went with a group back to Choomadan in hopes of finding some room this time. Luckily we found a booth and were all able to cram in and around it. I had another beer and a couple shots of vodka (the shots they give in Russia are about one and a half to two times as big as a typical shot in America, so two shots would come to about 3 or four by our standards) and by then I was at a perfect level of inebriation and had a great time hanging out and talking with everyone. I found out that Matt, my roommate from the orientation, is a huge Kids in the Hall fan, so we talked about that for a while and it made me want to watch it so bad. At about 11:30 Vickie and I decided to head home because most public transportation stops at midnight (more on that later), so we headed back down to Sredniy Prospekt to see if we could catch a Marshrutka home. But first, we decided that a stop at McDonald’s sounded really really good. Only the walk-up window was open so we stood in line for about a half an hour to get our food but it was totally worth it. The marshrutkas all stop right in front of this McDonald’s, so we finished our food and waited around hoping that we weren’t too late to catch a ride home. We stood around for about 20 minutes with no luck and finally resigned ourselves to the fact that we were probably going to have to walk home. After we got about one block down I saw a marshrutka number 44 (the one we needed) heading back the other way, so we raced back to in front of the McDonalds to see if he would still give us a ride. There were a few other people talking to the driver, apparently negotiating whether or not they could get a ride and the driver asked us where we wanted to go. I said “to Gavanskaya,” and he gave it a few seconds of consideration and then waved us on. Since the marshrutkas are all privately owned, the drivers can decided if it’s worth staying out a little later than midnight if there are still people who are willing to pay. It was about 12:30 at this point, so I think we literally caught the last one of the night. We were very grateful, and made it home with no problems. I stayed up a little longer and listened to my iPod in bed (I’ve been way into the song “Back on the Chain Gang” by the Pretenders lately). That was Friday night. Saturday we had to get up early and meet the group at the usual hotel at 10:00 (the hotel where I catch the bus to school every morning). We were loaded into bus-vans and were then taken on a driving tour of the city. We had a Russian speaking tour guide in our bus-van and I kind of tuned her out a lot of the time, but I caught all the important things she said. We drove by a lot of things that I hadn’t seen yet, so I was grateful for the chance. The tour ended at the Peter and Paul Fortress on the Petrograd Site (The other main island of St. Petersburg besides Vasilesvskiy), where we were given a walking tour of the fortress. This is where the statue with the tiny head is, and I got my picture taken with it (check out flickr, there should be a lot of new pictures). The cathedral inside the fortress is the tallest building in the city (it’s pretty short for a tallest building though, and it’s all in the steeple) and the inside was amazing. This is where almost all of the Russian Tsars are buried. After the fortress it was time for all of us to get our HIV tests again, so they drove us to the health clinic where we all waited around for a long time while everybody had their blood drawn, and then as a way of apologizing for making us get or blood drawn twice needlessly, Nathan the program director took us to lunch courtesy of CIEE. We went to a little café where we all had a little piece of meat pie (delicious) and a small cup of soup. It was really good, but everyone was still hungry afterwards, so when we were all done I followed a group back to McDonalds again (I know, it’s lame, but it was easy and convenient. I’m not going to make a habit of it). After finishing I met up with Vickie who had gone to Sbarro’s with a different group, and we then headed home to rest up for a while before going out later (well, I’m not sure if Vickie went out later or night, but I was going to). I ate dinner, listened to some music, and waited to hear from Nick as to where he and some of the other people were meeting up. Apparently the plan was for everyone to meet at this dance club called Club Metro at 11:00, but some people were going to meet up at a bar somewhere first. I think I explained before about how reluctant I am about going to dance clubs. Well I was feeling even more down on the idea by the time night rolled around, but I figured I would still meet up with people beforehand and play it by ear from their. After not hearing from anyone for a while, I called Ingrid and asked where they were and where I should meet them. She told me to get to the Gostiny Dvor metro station and call her from there, so I headed out to the metro. This was my first time riding the metro (any metro in fact) alone, but it was a breeze. I only had to go one stop. I got there and tried calling Ingrid and Nick, but neither of them would answer, so I decided to walk around for a bit and then try again. I cross one street and look down and see the Church on Spilt Blood looming a few blocks away, so I head towards it and start snapping pictures. It’s totally amazing. It’s exactly what most people probably think of when they think if Russia. Bug domes and ornate decorations and everything (again, check out the flickr). There was a guy who approached me in front of the church. I said I didn’t understand so he tried speaking in English. He only knew a few words. I think he was trying to say that he paints portraits. He kept saying what sounded like, “Portrait… here… time… 5 minute,” and I said “sorry, maybe another time” and walked away. Both Nick and Ingrid had tried calling while I was walking towards the church but the phone kept cutting out (I’m telling you, cell phone service in Russia is terrible) but after I saw the church I was ready to find them. I called Ingrid back and Kara answered. She said they were in an Irish Pub called Telegraph and explained the directions to me. This is where things went wrong. I told here I was at the Gostiny Dvor metro (which I was, in fact, approaching from the church) and she said to take a right from there onto Nevskiy Prospekt. So I did. I got all the way down to the Hermitage when I realized that I had obviously gone the wrong way somehow, because the Hermitage is at the very end of Nevskiy. I took the opportunity to take some pictures of the Hermitage and then headed back, knowing that the bar must have to be on the other side of the metro station. I headed back but I kept getting distracted by things along with way, like the Kazan Cathedral and some cool little park with a big statue. I walked past another exit from the Gostiny Dvor metro station, and realized that this must have been the way they rest of the group had come out and for them it would have been a right indeed. That explains it. I eventually made it to the bar with about ten minutes to spend there before everyone was leaving. It wasn’t a really big crowd, only Nick, John, Reed, Abby, Kara, Tsvety, and Ingrid. I pulled up a chair and explained the mix up to them and after a couple minutes this big Russian guy from the table behind me comes up to me and just stares at me intimidatingly. After a few seconds he starts speaking to me in Russian, none of which I could easily understand. HE put his arm around me and got really close. He shook my hand and kept trying to explain what he wanted to me through his drunken haze. I finally figured out that, from where I was sitting I was blocking his view of the TV that was playing a soccer game, and so I crammed into the side booth to accommodate him. It was a little scary but no problem in the end. His friend apologized to me for him in English on his way out. I told him it was no bog deal. So, the rest of the group decided not to go to club Metro but instead to some little place they had heard about called Dacha. I was pretty sure I wasn’t going to go in, but I followed them there anyway. It was a few blocks away on a small, sketchy side street. It wasn’t really a dance club, but more of just a night club. It was packed and looked hot a sweaty and smoky, and by that point I wasn’t really up for something like that. A guy outside said to us in English, “welcome to the most democratic of all the night clubs in the Soviet Union!” I told everyone I was cutting out and they said goodbye and went inside. By this time it was about 12:30 and I was now stuck with the dilemma of how to get home. The public transportation had apparently all stopped, so I was in a bit of a rut. I started walking down Nevskiy and saw a couple other people waiting for a bus. I remembered that bus number 147 goes from Nevskiy to right in front of my apartment, and if these other people are waiting then maybe there is one more bus to ride. I waited for about 15 minutes with no luck. The other option for late-night transport is to hail a cab. Mind you, these aren’t regular cabs. Most of them are people who own their own cars who drive around at night giving rides to people who flag them down. Apparently it’s totally safe and everybody does it all the time, but I wasn’t up to the challenge of negotiating prices in Russian and didn’t really want to pay for a cab fare by myself, so that left me with just one option to get home: walk. So, that’s what I did. To Gavanskaya all toe way from Nevskiy. I’m sure that doesn’t mean anything to anybody reading this, but let me assure you, it’s pretty far. Especially if you are walking alone at 1:00 AM. But I did it anyways. It was pretty crazy of me I guess, but I figured it would be good two have walked it at least once while I was in St. Petersburg. I tried calling the Diamond in Eugene during my walk by nobody was home. I left a brief message. There were some great views of the city at night from the bridge to Vasilevskiy and walking along the Neva. But, I don’t think I will ever walk that again. When I got back home and took off my shoes I discovered three huge blisters on my feet. My boots are great for walking in the snow and slush, but apparently aren’t to great on my feet. They’ll be alright, though, Mom and Dad (Grandma too), I know you’ll be reading this, don’t worry about my feet. The boots will be fine. After draining my blisters I went to sleep. I haven’t left my room yet this morning. I am meeting Katie at the metro station at 2:00 and we will go to Soiree where I will hopefully be able to upload these last couple posts to the blog and my pictures to flickr. Tomorrow it’s back to school. Hope everyone’s doing alright. Talk to you later.
-Austin