Today is Sunday, February 19, which means that I have been in Russia for exactly one month. Pretty crazy, huh? Well, let’s see, the last time I wrote anything was last Thursday night, and I guess a lot has happened since then. Plus, I wasn’t able to upload the post that I wrote Thursday, because on Friday at the computer lab at school blogger wouldn’t load for some reason. But, if you are reading this it means that I have uploaded that other one too, so look for that as well, if you want. Oh, I actually have something interesting that happened at school to write about. On Friday in Phonetics class we all got books from the teacher to use for an exercise we were doing. She said there was some mix-up with the school and that we were able to receive these books for free. These were only small phonetic exercise books, but all the exercises are based on scenes from three different Russian movies, one of which is a very popular new-years movie that I actually saw part of in first year Russian class called “The Irony of Fate” (how Russian). We watched a scene from this movie of a guy singing a song, then we read along with the lyrics from the book and did some exercises to go along with it. I didn’t realize until later when somebody else from the class pointed out to me that our phonetics teacher had actually written the book we were using! She hadn’t mentioned it when she gave them to us. It was kind of funny to find that out. So, I guess blog-worthy things do happen at school after all [side note: there was just a heated argument of some kind between a group of people on the street below my window, but I couldn’t tell what it was about. It didn’t even sound like Russian to me because everybody was shouting and talking really fast]. So, Friday after school a few of us got a plan together and went out for a little excursion in the afternoon. The first part was catching bus 147 down to the Hermitage to check out the Ice Palace thing that they built in the square in front of the Hermitage that everybody in St. Petersburg seems to be so obsessed with. I still haven’t even been to the Hermitage itself, which seems crazy, but I’ve still got plenty of time. The Ice Palace is this little building surrounded by sculptures, and it’s all made of ice. I see it everyday from the bus as I ride by, but I had net yet been up close to it (well, I did while it was still in progress, but I hadn’t seen it finished yet). There was a huge line of people waiting to actually go inside of it, but we figured it wasn’t worth the wait/cost to get in whatever either of them might have been. WE just walked around the perimeter of it, which was blocked off with a temporary fence and guarded by policemen. There was an ice slide shaped like two elephants that all the kids loved to slide down. All in all, it wasn’t all that exciting, at least not nearly enough as the huge crowds always gathered around it would make it seem. But, I figured that if I didn’t get a good look at it now then I’ll regret not having seen it once it’s gone, because it seemed like such a big important thing for the city right now and to me seems like a good way to commemorate the time that I am spending here once it’s over. Do you know what I mean? So, we finished up at the Ice Palace, and then headed over the bridge to Vassilevsky Island to see what we were really devoting our afternoon too. You see, stopping at the Ice Palace was really just an after thought I had had because it was so close to our final destination and I figured we could knock off the Ice Palace at the same time. Our real destination was to visit the St. Petersburg “Kuntskamera,” or as I kept referring to it as, “the Freak Museum.” “Kuntskamera” is apparently a German word meaning “oddity display” or something like that, and basically what it is is Peter the Great’s collection of human oddities that he had used to educate the public. The Kuntskamera is actually combined with the Museum of Ethnography and Anthropology, which is just a cheesy display of various world cultures, kind of like at the Museum of Modern History in New York or something, only a lot cornier. They have dummies dressed up like people from China or India or the Middle East, etc., and with lots of artifacts from each region too. The most interesting of all of this was the Native American displays, because it seemed so weird to be in Russia and to see their interpretation of Native American culture. But, None of us were all that interested in seeing this kind of stuff, and we moved fairly quickly through all these displays to get to the Kuntskamera. It’s only one room, but man, what a room it was. There are tons of display cases filled with preserved deformed infants in jars, all of which are about 300 years old. Peter the Great had purchased most of his collection of deformed infants from some Dutch physiologist back in the early 1700’s, and many of them are on display here. I can’t even really describe in words what it’s like in there. There are all kinds of siamese twins connected at various spots, babies with underdeveloped heads, deformed appendages, and all kinds of other deformities you can’t even imagine. And they all had pretty haunting expressions on their faces, which is probably the most disturbing part of it all. The fact that they are all three hundred years old really creeped me out too, thinking that they have been stuck in these positions for that long, preserved to look basically just like they did way back then (albeit without any coloration of the skin) was like a terrifying window into the past. As disturbing as it all was, it was still so intriguing that I couldn’t help but keep staring at them for a really long time, and I tried to get as many pictures as I could. Like most places in Russia, I’ve come to find, they try to get you to pay to take pictures at this museum, and, also like most places in Russia, they have old ladies who sit in every room of the museum and make sure all the rules are enforced, including, I presume, making sure that nobody takes pictures who hasn’t paid to do so. There were two old ladies in the Kuntskamera room, and I sign that specifically said no picture taking, but I figure, why not? What’s it to them whether or not I take pictures? They aren’t losing money if I do, there’s absolutely no harm done. So, at the Kuntskamera I played a round of a little game I came up with called “Taking pictures when you aren’t supposed to without getting caught.” I won this round. The two old ladies were sitting in the corner talking, but still looking around. This meant I could only really take pictures of certain things, i.e., only those which were outside of the old ladies’ lines of sight. It also meant not being able to use a flash, which wouldn’t have been good anyways because everything was behind glass and the pictures would have all had a big glare on them. All in all, I think that I, and the pictures, fared pretty well, and I encourage you to check out my flickr page to see the results (but be warned, you might get pretty freaked out by the baby mutants! Look if you dare). So, thoroughly freaked out, we all finished up the rest of the museum (including “The World of an Object”) and then we all went back home before heading out again for the evening. I chilled out at home for a while, at some Pelmeny (Russian ravioli kind of) and then met up with Vickie to head over the Vassileostrovskaya to meet with other people. We met up with Bryce and Katie and decided to go to Koffee Khaus for a little while. Vickie and Katie had some coffee while Bryce and I started in on the beer. Our waitress’s name was Aigool, and we couldn’t figure out what kind of name it was (it’s definitely not Russian). I was going to ask her but I chickened out and never did. More people showed up and we eventually had about 8 or 9 total before heading over to Petra for the usual beers and hookah. I’m actually starting to get sick of going to places in huge groups like this, because I think it’s kind of embarrassing to be in the big group of Americans who come in and just take over a place basically. Plus they all know us at Petra now, and I feel like we might be starting to get on their nerves. But, we all had a good time anyways, just like always. More people came while we were there and the group probably totaled 11 at its peak. As midnight was approaching, everyone had to make a decision as to whether or not they wanted to leave early and catch the metro / a marshrutka, or if they wanted to stay out later and ride a chasnik home. A group of us who all lived on the island (Vickie, Tsveti, Ingrid, Kara, and myself) decided that we would stay out longer and all share a chasnik when we wanted to go home. Everybody else left early. Petra closes at midnight, and starting at about 11:30 we could tell they were already starting to close up. So we paid the bill and got all our stuff together as quickly as we could and decided to head down the street to Choomadan to hang out there for a little while. All the employees of Petra came in a few minutes after we did, and it was kind of funny and we all said hi to each other. Our waitress was no friendly at all, and really messed up our order. I think only two of us ordered a beer there but she ended up bringing us four, and when we told her that we didn’t order that many she said that we had to take them because they were already opened and she couldn’t take them back. Tsveti had ordered a bottle of water and specifically asked for non-carbonated water, and of course the waitress brought carbonated. Tsveti didn’t know until after she opened it and drank it, so if course she couldn’t return that either. Kara ordered some French fries and about twenty minutes later the waitress came back and said she couldn’t bring us only a side dish without us ordering a full meal, which is totally bogus because we’ve ordered fries in there several times before. So, Kara had to go without her fires, but we had already decided to go to McDonalds afterwards anyways, so she decided she could wait. Once we got sick of Choomadan and of our waitress we decided to head out and go the McDonalds before we got our chasnik. The walk-up window is open until really late. I don’t like going to McDonalds but late at night after we’ve been drinking and we’re hungry and it’s the only thing that’s open for food it usually sounds pretty good. We all ordered and then stood around eating before we got our chasnik. There was a drunkard hanging around in front of McDonalds making everybody uncomfortable, and when he gestured for me to come talk to him I figured I probably should, just to keep him busy and away from the girls who were obviously made pretty uncomfortable by him hanging around. He kept trying to tell me something but I couldn’t understand a word he was saying, and I kept telling him that I don’t speak Russian well and that he wasn’t making any sense to me. I started pointing inside my bag of food, so I figured he just wanted some food, so I was happy to spare a few French fries if it meant keeping him away from us. I handed him the fries and he seemed to accept them at first, but then he started dropping them on the ground in protest or something, I don’t know, so I figured I wasn’t willing to do anything more for him if he wasn’t going to accept my generous offering, so I walked away and joined the girls in their little circle. He kind of followed me over and started throwing the French fries he had left at my back, but I just ignored him. In the meantime Vickie was still waiting for her food, and once she got it we were ready to get a chasnik. Lots of chasniks line up on the street here because it’s right next to a metro station and a lot of people end up looking for rides here. There was one guy looking for somebody to give a ride to and Tsveti, being Bulgarian and speaking Russian pretty well, did the talking and arranged for him to take us all home for 150 rubles. The whole time we were talking with the driver the drunkard kept coming up and bothering us, and the driver kept getting mad and shoving him away. It was probably a bad sign. The plan was that Vickie and I would be dropped of last, because the girls all wanted to make sure that there was a guy with them in the chasnik at all times. This means that the driver would kind of have to go out of the way to take them first, but we explained the order to him and we thought he understood. All the other girls kind of live close to each other and he said the should take a separate one, but they remained insistent that they take the same one as me. We assured him that we could all five fit in his car, so the four girls crammed in the back and we were on our way for what we thought would be a 150 ruble ride. A few blocks away he started protesting and saying that he had to go in a big circle and that he was going to charge us 200 instead, and we didn’t put up much of a fight and agreed, 200. He dropped Ingrid, Kara and Tsveti off at their respective apartments all around the street Korablestroitelei, and then headed back to Gavanskaya to drop of Vickie and me. He started complaining about how he had to go in a big circle, and I explained how the girls all wanted me to be the last one dropped of, and he said he understood that but was still mad that he had to go out of his way. I didn’t understand everything he way saying, but I kept hearing him say the word for 1,000, and I thought he was saying that’s how much he was going to charge us for the ride. I of course go outraged and said something like, “Are you kidding? You said 200 for the ride!” He said, “No, you misunderstand me, the ride is 200. Forget it, you don’t understand what I’m trying to say.” I don’t know what the whole thing about “1,000” was, because I thought I heard him say distinctly “1,000 rubles,” but I guess I was wrong. At least I had confirmed that he was charging 200, and I thought we would be OK. We got to our stop and it was time to pay. Here is where I made my fatal mistake. I didn’t have any small bills for my share of the fare, but everybody else had given theirs to me so I figured that I would give him my 500 ruble bill and he would give me 300 in change. I had given large bills and gotten change back before in other chasniks without any problems, so I figured it would be fine, but when he saw that I was paying him with a 500 ruble bill he decided that he was only going to give me 200 in change back. I said, “You told us 200!” and he said “That was before I knew I had to go in a big circle” or something like that, which is totally bogus cause he had confirmed the 200 ruble price on the last leg of the trip. I kept insisting he give me 100 more rubles, nut he kept giving me a firm and uncompromising, “Nyet.” Vickie was getting on him at this point to, but we realized there was nothing we could really do. He had the upper hand and wasn’t going to give us any more change, so short of violence there was nothing I could have really done. We got out huffing and puffing and I slammed his door as I could and he drove off. If I had 200 in correct change I would have just given it to him and if he had asked for more we could have just gotten out (although, it was a two-door, and if that he been the case he could have theoretically driven off with Vickie in the back seat once I had gotten out, so maybe that wouldn’t have been the ideal scenario), but since I gave him 500 he had the option of giving me however much back he wanted. I learned my lesson, from now on I will try to have correction change when riding a chasnik. Vickie and I went to our apartments really pissed of, and I stayed up listening to music for a little while before going to bed. The next day promised to be better. We had a group excursion to a little town outside of St. Petersburg called Pavlovsk where there is an old Tsarist Palace and a big park. That morning I ate blini for breakfast, of course, and then Vickie and I rode bus 7 over to the meeting place at the hotel. The bus was going on a different route than it normally does for some reason, and at some point I realized that it was taking us away from the hotel, so we jumped out at some unknown stop before it got any further away from the hotel, and the hotel wasn’t to far from where we were at that point anyways. The bus driver tried to close the doors behind me before Vickie could get off, and as I heard them closing I instantly turned around and wedged my arm horizontally between the doors to keep it from closing. Vickie and I were of course still upset about the chasnik experience the night before, so we weren’t about to take any more crap from anybody like this. We walked over to the hotel and got worried for a while because we were the only ones there and it was pretty close to the meeting time, but everyone showed up eventually as did the bus, so we were soon on our way. We stopped at Kazan Cathedral on the way out to pick up our tour guides for the palace and to make sure the other group got on their bus. It was only about a 20 minute drive to Pavlovsk, and we met up with the other group and walked towards the palace. It was covered in scaffolding, as are most cool buildings I ever seem to visit. We went inside and everybody had to but slippers over their shoes to walk around the palace. Of course none of the slippers fit my feet, so I had to get the little plastic baggies. We checked out the gift shop briefly, where I considered getting a balalaika but realized that they weren’t very god quality here and probably too expensive. The palace was pretty cool, typical decadent architecture and furnishings for reach rulers, stuff that I’ve kind of seen before so I wasn’t too enthralled with everything. I did start taking a lot of pictures. At one point the tour guide asked me if I had paid to take pictures, and of course I said “no,” and she told me that I couldn’t without paying, but that if I was going to don’t let anybody see me doing it. The old ladies are in ever room, of course. So I played another round of everybody’s new favorite game and ended up with some pretty good, though “illegally” taken photographs. After the tour was over we had the option of riding the normal bus back for free, or we could stick around for a while if we wanted and ride a marshrutka back later for a small fee. We hung out in the square briefly while some of the other group members went on sleigh rides. Katie is apparently really afraid of horses, so we made fun of her as she was getting freaked out by the horses that were pulling the sleighs. I came up with a cool rhyme in Russian, it sounds like: “loshadi v ploshadi,” which means “horses in the square,” which seems so perfect I wondered why I had never heard it before. I really wanted to stay for a while and check out the huge park next to the palace, but the people I was with (Tom, Katie, Vickie and Nick) were kind of wishy-washy about whether or not they were going to leave right away. I somehow managed to get them to follow me into the park and they all ended up staying longer. We slid down an icy, snow-covered hill and their was no turning back. Natalie, fresh off of her sleigh ride, joined up with us and we walked around the park. There were small groups of people sledding here and there and we walked around a little building that had columns covered in graffiti (I found “Kino” written on a column, so I had to take some pictures). We walked on a frozen stream and then came over a hill to find tons and tons of people sledding down the other side. It looked like so much fun and I really wanted to rent an inner tube and do some sledding of my own. I think it was Nathan the program director who told us that at this park in Pavlovsk is the only place where you can find Russians being happy, and I’m starting to think that’s true. Everybody else started complaining that they were cold or hungry or whatever, and so we couldn’t stay and play. We decided, however, that on Thursday we are going to go back and spend the whole day there because it is a national holiday (Defenders of the Fatherland Day, of course) and we have the day off from school. I’m really looking forward to that. We headed back to the palace, considered eating at the cafeteria there but instead decided to eat back in St. Petersburg, and then caught a marshrutka back to town. It was 25 rubles apiece, not bad for a ride that far. It dropped us off at Moskovskaya metro station, way in the south part of the city, so we had to ride the metro back up to the city center. Everybody decided that they wanted to go to KFC for lunch, and I reluctantly joined them. I suggested trying the Russian version of fast food called “Blin-donald’s” (seriously) but nobody was interested. So, KFC it was. It was fine, just like any KFC in America only way more crowded. I had a chicken sandwich and French fries. I was still a little hungry after that, but luckily there is a Pizza Hut in the same restaurant, so I got a slice of cheese pizza to finish off lunch. It was basically the same as Pizza Hut in America too. There was talk about all of us going over to Tom’s apartment to hang out later and I had originally planned to go home for a while before going out again, but I figured I didn’t really need to and we all decided to stay out some more. Somebody had thrown out the idea of going to see a movie, and everybody seemed to be interested, so we found the nearest theater to see what was playing. Luckily there are movie theaters about every two blocks on Nevskiy, so the nearest one was about 50 feet away. Our options were limited at this theater and we had just missed the start of “Munich,” which I still haven’t seen but really want to, so we decided to settle on some Russian movie that none of us had ever heard of called “Bolshoi Lyubov” (literally “Big Love”). We bought our tickets which, of course, have assigned seating, and entered the theater. There’s a VIP section in the back where you can sit on couches, but we didn’t want to pay extra so we sat in the normal seats. There was one 30-second preview before the movie started. The movie was kind of silly but we all had a good time. It’s a romantic comedy about this military general who is a real ladies-man but for some reason is told my his commanding officer that he has to get married to somebody in two weeks, so he flies to Moscow and meets a flight attendant on the way that he ends up meeting again in Moscow and they fall in love. It looks like everything is going to work out for them, but then he finds out that his friend is also secretly in love with her and so he decides he can’t marry her and instead asks this mean, ugly bus konduktor to marry him on a whim just because he needs to marry some one (we were never sure why he had to get married). Of course the flight attendant finds out and she’s heartbroken and there’s an awkward scene on the plane where she is the flight attendant on the same flight that the general and his new “fiancée” are on, but in the end the general’s best friend finds out about everything and insists that the general go back to Moscow and marry the flight attendant. So he ditches the other girl on their wedding day and there’s a big dramatic closing scene where he meets the flight attendant on the runway after her plane has landed. Pretty cheesy and predictable over all, but it was good way to spend the afternoon and I was glad to have finally gone to the movie theater here. Afterwards we decided it was a good time to head over to Tom’s, so we call called our host moms to tell them that we wouldn’t be home for dinner and walked the 15 minutes or so it takes to get to Tom’s from Nevskiy. The second we entered the apartment we were met with a blast of piping hot air. His host-dad inside was in short-sleeves and shorts and we of course were all bundled up from being outside. It was, literally, like a sauna in there. I say that a lot as a joke but this time I’m totally serious. We went through the long and difficult process of all taking off our jackets and shoes in the tiny hallway and then made it to the back room where it was much, much cooler. It’s kind of like a living room where Tom’s host brother-sleeps because Tom sleeps in the host-brother’s regular room, which is kind of weird I guess. His host-dad kept brining us tea and pretzels and even dried and salted fish, which I didn’t have any off. He even gave us apples that he had just picked at his dacha. We had also brought some beer, so we sat around beers-drinkin’ and pretzels-eatin’ for a while. Tom’s host dad would periodically come in and show us stuff like pictures, the wood bowls that his father in-law makes, and the old bricks in the walls of the building. It was a good time for sure. I kept getting lots of calls and text messages while I was there and I felt very popular. My mom called from LA, so that was pretty cool. Most of the other calls and text messages were from various people letting us know that they were meeting to go to some bar later, and we told them that we would catch up with them even later. Eventually Nick and I did just that, so we said goodbye to everybody else who was going to hang out for a while longer and headed out. In the stairwell there was some women standing to the side to let us pass, and because it was really dark in the stairwell I didn’t see that she was holding back a huge dog. It suddenly snapped at me and I was so startled and freaked out for a second, but she held it back and I didn’t get bitten. I think it had a muzzle on anyways. Outside the metro station I bought a blini with cheese from a really unfriendly woman working at the blini stand (what else is new) and then we got on the metro to ride to Gostiny Dvor. Once we got there I got a hold of Bryce to find out where they were, and he gave me directions to a bar called the Red Lion where apparently a lot of people already were. We got outside and came to the realization that if we go this bar that we would have no hope of riding a bus or metro back home later, because it was about 10:30 and the bar was quite a walk away, which means we would have to make the same walk back and would have less than a half hour there if that was the case. So Nick thought he would call Tsveti and see what she and whoever she was with were doing and whether or not they were close by. Apparently they (her, Ingrid, Kara and Abby) were somewhere on Nevskiy, and we decided to meet up and then maybe head over to the Red Lion. We figured out which side of the street they were on and which direction they were walking, and planned to intercept them somewhere. We started walking and after a while started to wonder where they were, because by then we should have found them. Nick called Tsveti back and found out that they had gotten a chasnik and went straight to the Red Lion, which was kind of annoying because we had just walked several blocks in the opposite direction hoping to find them, but we decided to catch a bus back and meet them at the Red Lion. I suddenly remembered that route 22 should take us over to that area, so we hopped on the next one (about a one minute wait) and rode over there. The bus was packed, even at 11:00 at night. I had all my layers on and was getting pretty overheated on that bus. It dropped is off near St. Isaac’s square and it was a short walk over to the bar. The bar was basement level and really sprawling inside. It is an ex-patriot and is apparently always filled it Americans and Brits. They had a live band that was playing a medley of British and American pop and rock songs from the 60’s and 70’s and I had a good time dancing to that for a while, I joined the rest of the group at the table and found that drinks were really expense (80 rubles for a half pint of the cheapest beer. 60 rubles is the average we usually pay for that at other places), so I only ended up having one. The place was pretty raucous and loud, but we had a pretty good table to ourselves. The back room where the band was playing started playing dance music, and some people from our group went back and danced to that for a while but I wasn’t really too into it. I pretty much stayed at the table the whole time I was there, talking with various people from the group. I was pretty tired and I felt like I wasn’t really engaged in any of the conversations that were going on, so I decided to leave a little early. By this time it was about 1:30. I thought that the Red Lion was a pretty cool place and I would go there more often if the drinks weren’t so expensive. I walked alone along the river towards the bridge to Vassilevsky. After the chasnik fiasco the night before I had thought that maybe I should just try walking home again, but it started snowing pretty heavily and I knew that I probably would just get huge blisters again, so I decided that I should give chasniks another shot. I figured I would at least walk down to the bridge and cross over onto the island so the chasnik ride would be cheaper. It wasn’t all that much further, but the mental aspect of simply being on the same island seemed to make it feel a lot shorter back to the apartment. Plus, I figured there might be some chasnik drivers who prefer to stay just on the island and would probably charge less if I was already there going somewhere on the island myself. I got over the bridge and just as I stopped to hail a chasnik, one was dropping someone else off on the other side of the street and saw that I wanted one myself. I decided I was going to offer 100 up front, but would be willing to go as high as 150 if I had to. I told him I was going to Gavanskaya and he asked me “how much?” I told him 100 and it was good enough for him. I was happy too, because I knew I had a 100 ruble bill on me and could pay him exact change this time. The ride was silent like usual, and I got home without any problems for the price we had agreed upon. Maybe all chasnik drivers aren’t so bad after all. I stayed up for a while listening to music again and conked out around 2:30. Today, Sunday, was spent much like last Sunday: just hanging around the apartment. It’s nice to be able to sleep in on Sunday and just take it easy. Actually, I was getting kind of bored earlier, and tried getting a hold of some people to see what they were doing. Some people were out at some park or something, but I didn’t really want to go find them or anything, so I just stayed home all day. Oh well. Oh yeah, I got a call back about helping out in the English classes, which is good because I was starting to think that I was going to have to contact them. They set me up to help out in a class of teenagers tomorrow night at 6:00. I was kind of hoping I’d be teaching people more my own age, but I think teenagers could be a lot of fun too. They’ll probably be more interested in what I have to say and might even look up to me in some ways. So, I’ll let you know how that goes. Right now, though, I need to go take a shower and then go to sleep. So, take it easy. Later.