Alright. There’s a lot that needs to be said about the last two weeks, but I’m not going to be able to say it all here. I’m going to have to give a relatively succinct run-through of my spring break, otherwise this post would go on for pages and pages. So, we started on March 7th by taking a train to Moscow. It was fun. We rode “kupe,” which is the 2nd class train type and consists of a series of small, 4-bed compartments with walls and closing doors. I hung out in one compartment for a while and we watched Blue Velvet on Tom’s computer. Most of the people I watched it with didn’t like it. It was burning hot on the train so I slept very poorly, mostly trying to keep my head close to the window to get as much cool air as I could. We arrived in Moscow early the next morning and were whisked away to our hotel. It’s a big fancy new hotel outside of the center called the Hotel Cosmos, and it obviously caters to a lot of westerners. Actually, while we were in Moscow there was a big international track-meet in town and all the athletes were staying at this hotel too, so in the lobby (which was huge) and in the halls we would see athletes from all over the world, all usually wearing running jackets that say the name of their country on the back. So, we had a very international time at the hotel. After getting set up at the hotel we all got on the bus again and headed for our excursion to the Kremlin. There were guards at the gate and we all had to go through metal detectors. They almost didn’t let Tom in because he was wearing ripped-up jeans and that’s apparently too disrespectful. They finally let him in but told him something like, “you are a dirty and unpleasant person.” We went to the Kremlin museum, which had lots of relics from the Tsarist days like clothes and carriages and lots and lots of gold trinkets and stuff. Everyone was still pretty tired at this point and weren’t really interested in seeing all that stuff. Back outside we saw the cluster of famous churches inside the Kremlin, and it was pretty neat to see all of the together like that in the square. We went inside a few of them and I snuck some pictures. Back outside we saw the huge bell that had never been rung and the huge cannon that had never been fired. Soon thereafter the bus took us back to the hotel and I think most of us hung out there for the rest of the day. Oh, a few of us went to Sbarros down the street and walked through the weird market place area across the street. We had a lot of people over to our room (Mine and Matt’s) that night to drink and have fun, etc. Actually, our room pretty much became party central every night in Moscow. So, everyone had a fun time hanging out in the hotel. The next day we all got up early for our city tour. First stop was Lenin’s Tomb on Red Square. We had to go there first because people are only allowed in at certain hours and you have to go and wait in line for a while. So, we stood out in the cold for about a half an hour before they let us into the square where we had to walk straight to the mausoleum. There are no cameras allowed inside the mausoleum, so sadly I got no pictures of Lenin, but I definitely saw him. There are guards stationed about every ten feet inside, making sure you don’t talk or put your hands in your pockets. You can’t stop and look at Lenin either, you can only walk by at a steady pace or the guards will yell at you. But, it was worth it to see Lenin in the flesh (well, sort of). Outside of the mausoleum, against the wall of the Kremlin is where a lot of the great Soviet leaders and heroes are buried, so we got to see the graves of people like Stalin, Brezhnev, and Gagarin. We didn’t have tome then to linger in Red Square, so we got back on the bus for the rest of our city-tour. Moscow is an insanely huge, sprawling mess of a city, so I was completely disoriented the whole time we drove through it. I saw a lot of the Seven Sisters (these big buildings that are spread out throughout the city that all look kind of similar) including Moscow State University. We stopped at a cool vantage point and looked over the city. There were lots of souvenir tables there, and I ended up buying a flask and this really cool thing that is both a switchblade and a lighter in one. You’d have to see it to understand. We drove around the city some more and were finally dropped of near Red Square. We walked up to it to take lots of pictures of the square, the Kremlin, St. Basil’s Cathedral, the GUM department store and all the other famous things on Red Square. I followed some people to McDonalds for lunch and walked over to the Bolshoi Theater to see about tickets. I got back to Red Square soon afterwards to meet up with my Spring Break travel group so we could go but train tickets to Sochi. We ran into some Mormon missionaries and then slipped away to find a train station. We rode the metro and got out at a stop that had three train stations next to it. We chose Kazanskyi train station at random from the three because it doesn’t matter where you buy your tickets. After searching around the station for a while we finally found the ticket booth. We asked about the cost of various classes of trains and found that kupe would be about $100, while 3rd class (“platskart”) would only be about $30. So, it was a no-brainer. We all headed back to the hotel where a lot of the others were already waiting. That night was much like the night before it, hanging out in our room with some beer and vodka and having a good time. The next day a lot of us decided to go to one of the best art museums in Moscow, the Tretyakov Gallery. I had a great time checking out the art of lots of famous Russian and non-Russian artists. Sasha from Finland was there and it turns out she knows a ton about art, so she was giving me the background stories about all the different paintings and their artists. The Tretyakov has the world’s largest collection of Russian Icons, so that was pretty cool to see too. After the Gallery I broke off from my group to meet up with my friend Christine and her boy friend Blake. You remember them from my last entry, when they were in St. Petersburg and I met up with them for Mexican food. Well, this time we were in Moscow, so of course we had to meet up for Indian food instead. She told me to meet them next to the statue of Mayakovskiy, which I managed to find al right. I stood around watching a news team filming a segment nearby and kids skateboarding around the statue when Christine and Blake showed up. The restaurant was right across the street. I hadn’t had Indian food in months, so it was pretty great to eat there. We talked about our experiences in Russia and about people that Christine and I knew from back home, etc. It was a nice, relaxing time. I had plans to meet back up with the Tretyakov group later to see an opera at the Bolshoi, but I had a few hours to kill before then, so Christine and Blake suggested they take me over to the Arbat. The Arbat is a street and an entire district really that is known for its Bohemian lifestyle and cool artsy-ness. The folk singer Bulat Okudzhava wrote a song about it. We took the metro there and then walked up and down the street for a bit. It’s an old cobblestone street that is pedestrian-only and filled with booths and vendors. My favorite part was a wall down a side-alley that is basically a shrine to my favorite Russian band Kino and the late lead-singer Viktor Tsoi. There is tons of graffiti and lots of posters all over the wall, and a spot where people come to lay broken cigarettes in honor of Viktor (apparently they have a song about a brken cigarette, but I don’t know which one it is). I, of course, didn’t have any cigarettes, but Blake was nice enough to lend me one of his so I could break it and leave it on the pile while he smoked one. From Arbat we walked over to the Bolshoi, which was kind of a long walk but I enjoyed seeing more of Moscow. Once there, Christine and Blake took off while I waited for the others. They showed up and we went to buy the specially-priced student tickets. Guess how much a student ticket to the Bolshoi was. Nope, less. A student ticket was only 20 rubles, which comes to about 66 cents. Amazing! Granted, they were the worst seats in the house (4th balcony, along the side), but hey, how can you argue with 20 rubles? The play was La Bohem (how do you spell that?) and it wasn’t translated into Russian as I hear so many operas are. It was fun I guess. I’m not really into the opera that much. Luckily, we all desided after much hesitation to leave during intermission. Well, a couple people stayed. We got back to the hotel and did the usually partying in our room, except everyone cleared out early for my sake because I had to get up really early to catch my 8:00 AM train the next morning. So, after a decent night’s sleep I was off to my real spring break. There were 6 of us: Ingrid, Kara, Abby, John, Reed, and Me. We made our way through the Metro and got to the train station with plenty of time to spare. The platskart cars are basically open-compartments, meaning no privacy whatsoever. But it was fine, really. I had heard a lot of bad things about it but now I think I would choose platskart over kupe any day because you save so much. It’s arranged kind of like the kupe, with rows of bunks on the right running perpendicular to the train, and another row of bunks running parallel to the train on the other side. My ticket was for a top bunk on the perpendicular side, and I determined that I was far too large to be asble to fit in the top bunk comfortably. But when we left Moscow nobody was in the bunk below me, so I was beginning to think I might be able to take that spot instead. The same was true for the bunks across from mine, so it looked like we might have a whole little section to ourselves. We figured we might be able to negotiate with people to maybe switch spots and all get into spots that we liked, should more people come. Our first stop was in Ryazan, and wouldn’t you know it the owners of both those lower bunks got on there. The one who had the bunk below me was an unfriendly middle-aged woman who reeked of BO, and the lower bunk across from me was taken by a sketchy guy who kept reading a high-school biology book. I sat with them for a while, but when the stinky lady decided to start laying out her bed I managed to switch into Abby’s spot on the lower bunk across the aisle and back a row. It was probably one of the worst spots in the train, though, because it was right next to the door that leads to the bathroom and everyone was coming and going all the time. The train ride itself wasn’t that bad. I enjoyed looking out the window a lot, listening to music, playing cards a bit, and listening in on conversations. The sketchy guy got into a conversation with the rest of my group about how Americans have no culture, but I was too far away to really have any place in the conversation. There was a really nice younger women in the bunk above me and a couple of older women with a young girl across from me. The young girl had a bandage over her left eye. It was pretty hot on that train too, but not as bad as the one to Moscow. I was wearing shorts the whole time, though. Sleeping was a bit awkward and cramped, but I managed decently. In the middle of the night I awoke to find one of the two older women across from me putting a blanket over me, and I was a little freaked out at first but then realized how nice it was of her. There was a couple from Abkhazia (the break away region of Georgia that claims it is an independent nation but isn’t recognized by anyone. It’s just over the border from the Sochi area) who gave us their contact info and invited us to come visit them in Abkhazia. It would have been cool, but alas we were never able to do it. I woke up at about 6:30 just in time to see the train pull into the Krasnodar train station. This is the city where my Russian teacher Josh first came to when he was learning Russian, and I wish I could of seen more of it. Someday, I suppose. We still had about six hours to Sochi, but the snow was already gone by this point. It was a nice ride through the country-side, with lots of hills and forests everywhere, We stopped in the costal town of Tuapse and we got off the train for a second to find that this air was nice and warm (well, compared to St. Petersburg or Moscow) and we began to grow very excited for Sochi. It was a beautiful ride down the Black Sea coast to Sochi, and we got in right around noon. I had to use the bathroom really bad and the restrooms on the trains are always locked for about an hour before arrival. So I ran to the bathroom when we pulled into the station. Off course I had to pay, like at virtually all public bathrooms in Russia. When I got in I found that all the stalls are squat-toilets only. Apparently this is the case at all train stations throughout Russia. So, I had my first experience with a squat-toilet. Let’s just say it wasn’t fun. After that it was time for all of us to find a place to stay. WE decided we would try and rent an apartment, and lots of people came up to us who wanted to rent them to us. We decided to split into two groups and check out two different options before deciding on one. I went with Abby and Reed. This one guy took us on a marshrutka up into the hills of the town to this little condo place that was really clean and seemed really nice, but the location was pretty terrible. We told him we needed to go back and discuss it with the others, so we got back and decided that the apartment the others looked at would be better. They took us there, and it was an ugly communist era apartment complex, but the apartment itself was pretty nice, with our own kitchen, bathroom, and plenty of places to sleep. Best of all, it only cost us about $10 a night each. What a deal! After settling in we went to explore the town. We walked to the port where there were lots of fishermen on the docks. We waded in the Black Sea water and watched to sunset from a concrete jetty-thing. It felt so good to be there in the warm(ish) weather in a place that I had heard about for a long time and now finally got to see. When it was dark we headed back to the apartment and had a home-cooked meal of spaghetti. The next day we did more exploring. We walked along the Sochi river, through markets and a long the water some more. John and I went off for a while, and by the docks we saw a guy with a money in an army suit and a pistol in a halter. We posed for pictures with it and then realized that we had to pay the guy 100 rubles for it. It was worth it, though. WE walked further down along the water and found a great spot with more concrete jetties and wooden platforms. We tried to get back and walked down a small alley that ended up going for a long ways in a direction we didn’t want to go. We finally found our way back and hung out in the apartment for the most part that night. Oh, that day we had arranged to take an excursion into the mountains the next day, so the following morning we headed over to the train station to meet our tour guide Alexander. It was just us and a couple from Krasnodar in the van. We drove down to the town called Adler, which was so close to Georgia I could smell it. From there we took a turn up into the mountains to wards a little town called Krasnaya Polyana. This is right around where the Caucus Mountains begin, and they were very beautiful. I took a lot of pictures. In the town Krasnaya Polyana, Alexander took us to a place with honey and wine tasting. All of it was delicious, and we bought a jar of honey for our picnic lunch. The end of the line was at a ski resort that had a decent number of people skiing. Everyone in my group really really wanted to hike. I wasn’t all that desperate, but I figured I should follow them. There weren’t really any hiking trails because it’s just a ski resort, so we ended up hiking up the ski slope and then onto this muddy road up to the top of one of the runs. It wasn’t a very fun hike or anything, but there was a nice view from the top. There was a chair-lift that would have been fun to take to the top, but it was really expensive. Once we were at the top, John, Reed and I decided to see if we could ride it back down for cheap or free. The guy manning the lift was a younger guy who spoke a little English and was pretty friendly. When we asked him if we could ride, he asked if you had a ticket, and we said no, so he just flat out asked for a bribe (“give me money, please”). I think he wanted 100 rubles a person, which seemed a little too steep for us, so we decided we’d just walk back down. We had a nice picnic lunch of bread, meat, cheese, and of course honey, before we had to meet up with Alexander and the couple from Krasnodar. On the way back we stopped at a spot to check out a waterfall, which was pretty cool, as waterfalls usually are. We also stopped at a place that has mineral water coming out of a spigot, and the Russian men got their hair wet in it and took a drink. I tried drinking it, but it was pretty gross. The rest of the way back Alexander blasted pop music instead of speaking to us through his head-set microphone. There are a few Russian pop songs that I am getting to know well from hearing them all over here, and one of them is the theme song to this popular Russian show called “Not Born Beautiful.” Alexander played that one, of course. Back in Sochi we went to buy Bus tickets for the next day, and then went back to the apartment to relax a little while before heading out that night. When we were all ready we went out to try and find some sort of bar or club (I hate using the word “club” like this, but it’s what a lot of the places are I guess). At first we each got some beers and went down to the beach to drink and sit in the dark and look out at the water. The only kind of bar/club/whatever we could find was this place called Club Era that said “Strip Show” on the sign. There never was any strip show, but there was a pole in the middle of the dance floor. This place was pretty sleazy. There were a few women who were obviously prostitutes and a few older businessmen type here and there. Once people started figuring out that there was group of Americans in their midst we starting getting a lot of attention. I had a couple of Devyatkas (the 9% alcohol beers that Baltika makes) and a few shots so I was pretty drunk for most of the time we were there and I don’t really remember things linearly, but we met a lot of people and spoke a lot of Russian. There was one kid about 18 named Mark who told us his father was American, so he seemed to think very highly of us. He wanted John’s and My email addresses because he is going to come to America in three years (he has his mandatory military service starting in two months, which will take two years, so I’m not sure what he’s planning on doing for that extra year). Hopefully he won’t lose the cigarette box with our email addresses on it sometime before then. There were some sleazy older men that kept trying to dance with the girls. One of them told Kara she was the most beautiful girl he had ever seen. One guy apparently kept asking if he could kiss them, and when they told him “no” he asked me to ask them if he could kiss them. The bathroom at this place was outside and down the stairs and cost 5 rubles to use. It was disgusting in there, and of course it was another squat-toilet. At around 3:30 in the morning we decided to leave, but the girls had met this group of boys that wanted to take them to a tea house or something, so they went off with them and John and Reed while I went back to the apartment. I had discovered that I had lost one of the two keys to our apartment, so I got the other one form them, which meant I had to wake up when they arrived later to let them in. I was really hungry and tried to go to the McDonalds on the way back, but the walk-up window had been closed for about an hour. There were a few guys there banging on the window trying to get some service, but it was no use. Just down the street from the apartment I saw a couple walking, and the guy asked me, “Are you American?” and I said, “How could you tell?” Then I realized that they had been at the bar too and head seen me and the group. Their names were Maksim and Irina and they were very friendly. I talked to them for a while, I can’t really member what about, but I know that at some point Maksim started joking around with me that I was a spy and he was going to take me to the KGB. We parted ways and I got back to the apartment. Reed showed up soon there after. I was lying on my fold-out bed in the kitchen (that’s where I slept while we were there) I heard a knock at the door and assumed it was the others wanting to be let in. I got up and peeked through the peephole, not to find them, but some crazy white-haired man standing on the other side. I asked, “who’s there?” He said something but I couldn’t hear or understand him. I said “I don’t know you,” and in reply he said something about “girls,” and I had no idea what he wanted. I got a little freaked out and woke up Reed to ask him what to do, and of course all we really could do was not open the door, so I stood there looking at him through the peephole until he went away. Weird. A little later there was another knock and thankfully it was the others, so I could then sleep easy. The next day was a lazy kind of day because we were leaving on a bus at 5:00 in the evening, and we just chilled out for the afternoon. I went to the train station, got some food and used the internet. Back at the apartment, I remembered something about the night before that started to get me a little worried. At one point, when everybody else was up dancing, this older guy came up to me and started talking. Almost right away he showed me his militia ID (like the police), not in any kind of authoritative, official kind of way, but more as a conversation piece or something. We talked for a little bit and then he asked for my phone number. I really didn’t want to give it to him, so I told him I forget my number. Instead, he gives me his, and even transliterated his last name into Latin text (with my help). He told me that he really wanted me to call him tomorrow, and that he wanted to talk to me about something just for an hour or so. I said, “sure” or whatever, knowing all along that I was never going to call him. He left me alone and I didn’t talk to him for the rest of the night. What had me worried the next morning was that I remembered that I had told him that we were leaving the next day, and I had even told him the time and place and everything, just as a matter of conversation. Then I remembered that he was apparently a member of the militia, and I began to worry that I might make him really mad if I don’t call him, or that he might have wanted to talk to me about some sort of official business regarding our being in Sochi. Whatever his reason was, I still didn’t want to call him, and I just hoped that he wouldn’t be there at the bus station later that day with his fellow officers waiting for us. I didn’t tell anyone else about it. No need to make the others worry when they don’t have to, I figured. We got to the station with little time to spare, because we had to first help Reed figure out how he was getting back home (He doesn’t have a multiple-entry visa, so he couldn’t come with us to the Ukraine). We got there about ten minutes before the bus left, and there was no sign of the militia anywhere. Once we got out of the city I knew it was safe, and I was finally able to tell someone the story (Ingrid, who was sitting next to me). So, we left Sochi on a bus, headed for Port Kavkaz (Port Caucus), which is 13 hours away at the other end of Russia’s Black Sea coast. The road was through the mountains and really windy. There were a lot of clos encounters with other cars on some of the switch backs. It was pretty scary. The ride was quite uncomfortable for me, but I made it through alright. There were two drivers that took turns at the wheel, and Kara claims that she them with bottles of vodka and that they were drunk for most of the drive, but I didn’t notice. We went through the town of Novorosiysk, which is fairly large. We got into Port Kavkaz at about 5:30 in the morning. There is no town there, it’s literally just a Port. We were dropped off basically in the middle of nowhere with lots of industrial port-type stuff around, and we weren’t really sure what to do. Abby started laughing uncontrollable when she saw where we were. The only place to go was the ticket office for the Ferries. The door was open and there was a place for us to sit, but the windows didn’t open for a few hours. We were all freezing and tired, and with all my warm clothes on I laid on the bench inside and managed to sleep for a little bit. The window finally opened and we bought our ferry tickets, We waited around a little longer before it was time to board and then proceeded through customs. Everything was going smoothly until we got to the passport check booth. Everything was in order with our passports, but they would not give us back our migration cards with our registration on it. This is a very important piece of paper, and Nathan had told everybody to try and get it back from border patrol officers if they didn’t give them back to us automatically. In Russia you need to be registered in a place if you are there for more than 72 hours, and this piece of paper said that we were registered in St. Petersburg through the end of the program. If we didn’t get them back we would have to get them registered all over again, which apparently can take about a month, during which time we couldn’t leave St. Petersburg. So, they wouldn’t give us back our cards and we fought as hard as we could for them, but they wouldn’t budge. They wrote down our individual registration numbers for each of us and told us we could just get new copies once we got to St. Petersburg (Side note: Apparently that number is meaningless now without the actual migration card. I had to submit my passport and visa to be re-registered, but apparently it is only going to take a week, so it isn’t so bad after all). So, very frustrated, we were ready to get on a ferry and head to the Ukraine and get off of Russian soil for a while, They guy who works on the ferry was really excited to meet some Americans because he’s been studying English for the past few years in Novorosiysk. He even took us up to the control room to meet the captain. The captain had all gold teeth. It was a nice way to relax after the migration card fiasco (Another side note: it is about 1:00 in the morning as I write this, and I really want to finish but I feel like my writing is going to get sloppier and lazier as it gets later and as I get more tired. So, bare with me). It was a quick ferry ride, and on the other side everybody rushed to be first in line at the migration booth. We didn’t run, so we were last. When we finally got up to the booth, the officer was concerned that on the migration cards that we had to fill out we only listed “Yalta” as our destination. He claimed that we needed to have an actual address of a place we were staying. So, he kept all our passports while we waited for the everybody else to get through. He ended up being a really nice guy, and basically told us that we just need to pick some place that we will say we are staying at for the sake of the migration card, and he even helped us go through our guide book to choose a hotel. We picked one and filled it out on the cards, gave them back to him, and he stamped everything and gave it all back to us and we were on our way. It was the first of many pleasant experiences we were to have with Ukrainians. So, we went through customs after that really quick and were free to roam about the Ukraine. After exchanging our rubles for Ukrainian Grivna, we caught a taxi into the town just down the road form the port called Kerch. We at some food at a café near the bus station and tried to figure out how to get to Yalta. We decided a taxi might be the best way, because it would be much faster and more direct than taking a bus. We found a taxi driver and haggled him down to 500 Grivna for the 4 hour drive to Yalta (about $100, so only $20 each. Not bad at all for such a long taxi ride when you think about it). Our driver was named Misha, and he too was very nice. I sat in the front, of course, and everybody in the back got immersed in a big intellectual conversation that I was glad to not be a part of. The drive was nice. Eastern Crimea reminds me of Eastern Oregon a lot. We went through the capital of the Crimea, Simferopol, and then up into the mountains and down into Yalta. Misha learned that we wanted to rent an apartment, so he took it upon himself to help us do so. He found someone and started talking to them and making connections, and before long we pulled into a back street and checking out an apartment. The apartment was amazing, by the way. Again, we paid only $10 each per night. Here’s the crazy thing that happened: We had known that Peter David, Alex and Colleen were also staying somewhere in Yalta, but we had no idea where and no way to get a hold of them. As we were standing around on the alley / street thing in front of our apartment negotiating with the hostess and with Misha, who should come walking out of the building across the way but Peter David, Alex and Colleen! They were staying in an apartment just across the street! How crazy is that! So, we got to hang out with them for the rest of the time they were there (only about a day and a half). So, we got our apartment, settled in, and then hit the town with Peter David. We just walked along the waterfront area, which is really nice. We ate some “burritos” and “pizza” and some restaurant, bought a bunch of wine and hung out back at the apartment for a while. I got my own room in the apartment with one of the most comfortable couches I’ve ever slept on. The next morning I waked around town alone for a bit, checking out the markets and trying to find some food. I bought a few groceries from a market and the really friendly women who worked there helped me pick out everything. That day we all decided to take a trip up to Europe’s tallest waterfall, which was a short drive and a short walk from downtown Yalta. We had to take two cabs, and our cab driver asked us if we were Polish. Actually, several people in the Ukraine asked us that. I guess they get a lot of Polish tourists there. The waterfall was pretty cool. I mean, I’ve seen taller, coming from the west and all, but it was still pretty cool. There was this staircase you could climb to get higher up and right next to it, and there were tons of steps missing. Whole sections, in fact. So, You basically had to climb up the side of the steep hill pulling yourself up with the hand rail with the occasional step to help you along. From up there the waterfall was amazing and there was a spectacular view of Yalta down below in the distance. The rest of my group decided to go off hiking in the mountains some more, but I headed back to town with Peter David and Alex (Colleen had gone off hiking by herself for the day). Back in town we broke down and went to McDonalds. There is a statue of Lenin that looks directly at the McDonalds, which is pretty hilarious. We walked around town some more, checked out the “thing market,” walked along the waterfront some more, and then headed back to their apartment for a while because I didn’t have a key to mine. We watched Ukrainian TV, and after a while the others got home and I went back to my apartment. PD, Alex and Colleen had to leave the next day, so we decided to have a big dinner at our apartment that night. They brought over a pasta dish and some pelmeny. Abby made cheesy potatoes, John made some fried trout, and I threw in some pelmeny of my own. It was a huge feast! We drank shots of vodka with our food like real Russians. We stayed up for a while drinking, talking and watching Ukrainian music videos. The next day PD, A, and C went back home, but we had some more time to spend. We decided to go check out the palace where the big conference between Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt took place in 1945. It wasn’t that exciting of a palace, but it was interesting for its historical significance. From there we decided to take the 5 kilometer walk down the coastline to this little castle called the “Swallows Nest” that the tsar had made for his mistress or something. We went down the wrong path at first and had to turn around, but once we got on the right path it was a nice walk through the forest with lots of great views of the oceans. The others sang along to what seemed like every song they could all possibly know while I hung back and just listened. We finally made it to the castle, which seemed like a castle out of a cartoon or something and was really tiny. The location is awesome though, right on the edge of a cliff over-looking the ocean. All there is inside now is an Italian restaurant. We were all pretty hungry and decided to give it a go. The food wasn’t bad. We had asked them right off the bat if they accepted credit cards, and they did, but when it came time to pay there were problems. Nobody’s card would work and we didn’t have enough cash to cover the meal, let alone for the cab ride back to town. They said it was a problem with their machine. We sat around for a long time while they tried to get the credit card to go through, and after a while it looked like it wasn’t going to work. So, for a small fee, they had a driver drive us back into Yalta to find an ATM, get the cash and give it too him. It was great! They got their money and we got a cheap ride back into town. Everybody wins. That night, the rest of the gang really wanted to go out to some place called the Catcus Club, but I was so exhausted and not in the mood for a “club.” I agreed to come out with them for a little while, and we went to some weird restaurant to have a beer before we found the other place, but I decided to head back after that. We only had one key, so I had to make sure I would wake up when I heard them ringing the doorbell whenever they got back. It sounded like they had a fun time, but I really wasn’t up for it. At the apartment I watched a little TV and basically just went to bed. The next morning we all had to go buy train tickets. Ingrid and John had decided that they were going to continue on to Odessa, and I almost decided to go with them, but ultimately decided it was a bad idea and that I was ready to get back to Petersburg. I’m sure I’ll have the chance in the future. It turned out that they had to take a later that afternoon, so they ran back to the apartment and go tall their stuff together before heading out. That left just Abby, Kara, and me. We ate at a Turkish café and then bought our own tickets to Moscow and then form there to St. Petersburg (plastkart, of course, except the Moscow-Petersburg one, which was a special, fast (5 hours) seating car. Most of the rest of the day we spent in the apartment, occasionally going out for food or to try and use the internet at the internet center around the corner, only to be told there was no room because there were too many kids playing computer games. We were going to see a Russian movie called “Boomer” that night, but we got side-tracked with finally being able to get on the internet, and having to find a way to call our landlady and tell her we were leaving earlier than we had initially said. So, instead of the movie we each got some things to cook for dinner, went back to the apartment and watched more Ukrainian TV until it was time to go to bed. The landlady came earlier than expected the next morning, so we got everything together fast as she inspected the apartment. Everything looked good, so we were on our way. We walked up to the bus station and found a taxi right away that would take us the Simferopol (where the train station is). It’s a 1 and a half hour drive, and we got there with plenty of time to spare. We sat around for a while, got some food, and did some reading before it was time to get on the train. I had a spot on the train just like the kind I had had before, which was fine. There were friendly Ukrainians across from me and nobody in the bunk above me, so I was happy. At some point during the ride, some people got on who didn’t have assigned spots on the train. I finally figured out that they were going short distances and had to just find somewhere to sit for a while. There was one guy who sat with me in my spot for an hour or so, but it was still during the day so I wasn’t real anxious to lie down or anything. He got out in a town called Zaporozhe, and in that town more people like him got on. One guy asked if he could sit there and I said sure, thinking he’d probably only be an hour or so too. I figured he’d probably be getting off in Dnipropetrovsk, the next major city, which wasn’t too far away. This guy was pretty sketchy. He had prison tattoos all over his hands and his nose was ridiculously crooked. I figured he’d probably had it broken at least a few times. After a while I began to suspect that we weren’t going to be going through Dnipropetrovsk after all, because by then we should have been there. I checked the mad and saw that we had gone off on a different route completely that doesn’t even go through any big towns. So, I began to wonder, where’s this guy going to get off? It was dark by then and I was starting to want to make up my bed and lay down. He ended up staying on for about five hours. He got off at the Ukrainian border, for what I don’t know. Right when he got off I put the table down and made up my bed right away so that nobody else could come and keep me from laying down. The Ukrainian border patrol came in and looked at our passports, and of course everything was in order. They even had a drug-sniffing dog come in and check for drugs. The women across the way told another passenger that one time she had been on a train when they actually found drugs. We pulled out of the border check and about and hour and a half later pulled into the Russian border check at the city of Belgorod. They were much more scrutinous with our passports and visas there, but there were no problems in the end and we got them back just fine. I know have a nice set of stamps from Russian and the Ukraine all in a row in my passport. I bought some chicken from a vendor on the platform and the providnist (the guy who kind of runs the train car. Usually it’s a women, but this time it was a man) even heated it up for me. Ukrainians, I’m telling you. They’re so nice. Soon their after I went to sleep, and it wasn’t too long after I woke up in the morning that we were in Moscow. We had to go on the metro one stop to get to our new train station, and once there had about 4 hours to kill before our next train left. I walked around the crazy marketplace area outside with lots of bootleg DVD stands. Moscow is much sleazier than St. Petersburg. The DVD kiosks in Moscow are filled with crazy porn, but you hardly ever see it in St. Petersburg. I had another bad experience with a squat-toilet at the train station too. After a long wait we finally boarded our train and began the final leg of our trip. The train was really fast, and what is usually an 8 hour trip only took 5 on this train. I just sat and listened to music most of the time. It was pretty comfortable, as far as train seating goes. We got into St. Petersburg at about 9:30, and then began my trek through the city with my huge backpack. I waited in line forever to get a metro token, and then had to wait around inside a marshrutka with my bag for a while too. But, I got home just fine and I was quite relieved to finally be home. Well, it isn’t really home, but for now it is. And so ended my crazy 2-week spring break. There are so many little details I had to leave out, but all the good ones will surface eventually. Oh, by the way, I seem to have lost about 2 or 3 t-shirts on the trip. I don’t know what could have happened to them. Oh well. Today was back to school like normal. Everybody was telling stories of their vacations. My favorite is Vickie and Katie’s. They, not thinking, took a train directly from Odessa to St. Petersburg, not realizing that it goes right through Belarus, and when they got to the border they were kicked off the train and had a big ordeal getting back to Kiev and then to Moscow and on to St. Petersburg. They have Byelorussian stamps I their passports though, and now I’m really jealous. I went to Soiree after school with Tom, Katie and Vickie, even though I didn’t have my laptop. Emily happened to be there and I was so glad to see her because I hadn’t in so long. We made plans to hang out this weekend. I left soiree early to get home and work on all the homework I have, including my big essay for Civilization class on what my impressions of Russian society are. And, that brings us up to speed. It is now 2:19 and time for me to sleep. There are some fun things coming up in the next few days I think, so keep an eye out for blog posts about those in the near future. It’s good to be back. Take care everyone.